Situation 2 When You Might Not Want to Ride Like a Pro:
Are you as skilled as Danny MacAskill? Can you corner as fast as Greg Minnaar? Can you brake as effectively as Rachel Atherton?
If your answer to any of those questions is “no”, then don’t you want to stack the odds in your favor? This has always puzzled me – it seems like so many riders want to make riding harder than it needs to be.
Off-camber wet roots are slippery, trails featuring them are challenging, so are steep, loose trails like Burro Pass in Moab (The beginning of The Whole Enchilada).
To give myself the best odds possible, I want a supple ride and the best traction I can get.
I do this by running big, fat tires: 29”x 3.0 tire (3 inches wide) with 15-16 psi in the front.
I run a 2.6-inch tire on the back of my bike as that is the widest tire that fits.
Yes, I get a lot of weird looks and questions: “Aren’t those tires slow-rolling?”
Well, actually they roll really fast, see, the outside diameter is a little over 30” and 15 psi sucks up at the little bumps on the trail.
“Little bumps on the trail?” Yeah, you know, tree roots, rocks less than two inches high, ruts, and holes. None of those bumps slow me down as much as they slow down riders on skinnier tires with more pressure.
“Explain that.” Well, my sidewalls are much taller than yours so there is more room for the tire to flex, absorbing the impact instead of bouncing off the obstacle and trying to push my body weight up. Combined with only 15 psi it is like having an extra, super subtle inch of suspension travel.
Did I mention the traction? It’s amazing, my contact patch is massive and the tire stays on the ground, surrounding pieces of gravel instead of sliding on top of the gravel! This gives me much more confidence. Especially in the corners.
Couldn’t you use a little more confidence? I know I appreciate it!
It was glorious! I was heading towards a loose corner on LPS and I instinctively reached for my brakes to slow down and saw that giant motorcycle tire in my peripheral vision and thought: “Why am I reaching for the brake lever, you have plenty of traction!” So I reeled in those fingers and railed the turn faster than I ever had before!
I have no idea if I could have done that with smaller tires. Maybe I could have, the thing is, I had never tried with my 2.5” front tire, I didn’t have the confidence!
Why Do So Many Mountain Bikers Compromise Their Traction? Is it simply not knowing the benefits? Is it fashion? Fear of being ridiculed?
Student: I read that Riche Rude tried plus-sized tires and didn’t like them.
Me: Can you corner as well as Richie Rude?
I love my 3.0 front tire except when flying with my bike! (it is a struggle to fit into my bike bag)
I won a National Downhill Championship and tied for a KOM on the fastest section of the Whole Enchilada last year using my 3.0 front tire. They even work great in the mud! Despite being completely packed with mud the big tires were surprisingly stable going down this volcano on Reunion Island a couple of years ago. Watch the video HERE
In 2002 I was running 24” x 3.0” Nokian Gazzaloddi tires at the UCI World Masters Championships and many of my competitors were laughing at me and my “slow-rolling, fat tires”. When I earned second place those same competitors told me I had cheated by using those tires. Too funny! Even funnier is those competitors of mine never adapted wider tires, and sadly those tires soon died off.
I believe all riders could benefit from more traction and a smoother ride. To do this you should be running the widest tires your frame (or rims) can fit with the least amount of pressure you can get away with. Experiment! Test tire width’s and pressures, yes, the change will feel strange at first so give those wide tires at least five rides before your final judgment.
I run a 29×3.0 Maxxis 3C Minnion F with EXO sidewall upfront and 29X2.6 Maxxis 3C Minnion F with EXO+ sidewall outback. Both on 40mm internal width rims without cush core type flat protection.
In Moab, because of all the square-edged rock hits, I run 16 psi in the front and 26 psi in the rear tire. In most other places I run 15 psi in the front and 22-24 psi in the rear tire.
Please share this article with anyone you think may benefit and feel free to call or e-mail with any questions.
Cheers
Gene
Thanks for the article! I remember a couple of years ago you posted one about how you loved your 27.5+ bike (Trek) and when you posted on your latest bike (Scott), I missed the part where you mentioned wide tires, so I thought you had gone back to conventional widths. Even though 27.5+ seems to be going out of style these days, I bought one last year (convertible to 29×2.6) and love it – easier to lean the bike in corners, more stable when landing jumps, much smoother over the rock gardens, more traction on rollers/slabs and just generally more confidence inspiring. Unfortunately I just smashed the frame, so will be forced to ride 29×2.3 and dated geometry until I get it replaced; I’m sure it will make me appreciate the return to wide tires that much more!
PS. Took your camp in VA 3 years ago and it definitely helped me reach new heights as a rider.
Hi Pascal,
Sorry to hear that you broke your frame! I hope is warrantied/fixed soon. Great to hear your impression of riding wide tires with less pressure!
At my height I went 29″ plus and I love them!
Glad to hear my course has taken your riding to new heights! Keep practicing with intention and doing your drills and you will continue to reach new heights!
Cheers,
Gene
Don’t have to make a believer out of me. And thanks for the vote of confidence after hearing the “fatties” had died off. In Kodiak, Alaska we have numerous technical, primitive, rooty, rocky and muddy single track trails. The switch to a 2.8 or 3” tire has made a HUGE difference for all the serious riders I know. Since our local bike distributor here is all Specialized, I have to plug the Black Diamond Butcher 2.8. At half the price of a Magic Mary, it’s every bit the best tire for serious traction. Oh and since I missed your instruction this year in Moab due to the virus, I’m more inspired for a future course.
Cheers
I saw your post on MTBR too. What’s a maxxis minnion f? The minion line ( one “N”!) has a few different models:
DHRII ( also in Plus model )
DHF ( also in a Plus model )
FBF + FBR ( fat bike models )
SS
Can you detail exactly which you’re talking about when you say “Minnion F” ?
Hi Slcpunk,
Thanks for catching my spelling error and sorry to confuse you. When I refer to a Minion F or a Minion R I am referring to the DHF and DHRII in the case of this article both are plus size, the DHF in front is a 29X3.0, and the DHRII in the rear is a 29X 2.6.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Gene