This is proper body position (centered and neutral) for riding and braking.

Can Mountain Bike Handlebars Be Too Wide?

Can Mountain Bike Handlebars Be Too Wide? As someone who preaches that a short stem and wide bars will give you much better handling on a mountain bike (both climbing and descending) I get asked that question a lot. The short answer is, of course your mountain bike handlebars can be too wide, but most likely your’s aren’t wide enough!

The reasons we have been preaching about wide bars since 1999 are that they simply give you more stability, more leverage to fight sudden jerks to the side and more leverage for cornering. A quick baseline to start from is to do a push up and experiment with hand width and find out where you feel most stable and powerful. From this starting point go out a bit wider and start working your way in. What we are looking for is for your forearms to slope outward slightly from your hands to your elbows when you have lowered your chest in a “half push-up” position (see photo below). At the widest your forearms should go straight up to your elbows when in this position.

Can Handlebars be too wide?

Handlebars Correct Width

This width will give you the optimum amount of control. From this position you can absorb shock, keep the wheels on the ground over a small drop, resist twisting/jerking forces and power you way trough a corner by getting enough counter pressure leverage to give you the right lean angle.

Unfortunately as this trend has caught on I have seen a few riders who are too short (or narrow shouldered, short armed) for the widest bars made and they look like this photo below:

Can Handlebars be too wide?

Handlebars Too Wide!

I saw a lot of young riders at Whistler last summer with a setup that looked like that. Really hard to control the bike when you are stretched out like that! Those riders need to cut their bars down a bit!

Most riders, especially cross country/endurance oriented riders run bars on the narrow side (perhaps because of tradition?) and they look like this:

Can Handlebars be too wide?

Handlebars Too Narrow

This also severely hampers control (really twitchy with no leverage to fight sudden bar jerks, and no leverage for cornering pressure) and collapses the lungs a bit making it hard to breathe! It is more aerodynamic though, which unfortunately doesn’t help much at the speeds you travel at on your mountain bike and aerodynamics are not worth sacrificing control over.

The widest bars I have found are the SMAC innovations SW820 Moto Bars ( http://smacinnovations.com/bars.php , 820mm wide) and at 6’3″ I run these uncut on both my xc and dh bikes. BetterRide coach and one the best technical riders I know, Andy Winohradsky is 5’6″ and runs 30.5″ wide bars on both of his bikes. We put on camps all over the country and have not yet found a trail with trees too narrow for these bars. The tightest trees I have found are on the East Coast, in Texas and in the Mid West. In some of these places there were two to four spots an hour where I had to slow down and wiggle through some tight trees. Four, even six times an hour is no reason to compromise your handling though, I would rather you have the most control 99% of your ride and have to slow down a bit a few times an hour than be out of control for 99% of your ride and be able to go faster over about 20 feet every hour! If you honestly live in an area with more than six tree gaps less than 32″ wide in an hour ride, cut your bars!

There is not yet a scientifically proven perfect mountain bike handlebar width as there are so many variables; height, shoulder width, arm length, stem length, top tube length, reach measurement, etc. The easiest way to find out what is right for you is to start at the widest width available to you (or that you feel is appropriate, if you are 5’1″ no need to start at 820mm!) and ride at that width (on a trail without narrow tree gaps at first!) and then keep moving the grips in a bit until your arms look close the “correct” photo above and you feel like you have the most control (not necessarily what feels best as what often feels best is what you are used to which may not be correct).

 

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4 replies
  1. Corey says:

    To continue with the pushup analogy, the narrower your “stance,” the greater the load on your triceps which in turn means that your arms are doing the most work. If that’s the case, your arms are going to fatigue that much sooner and the natural reaction to prevent that is to lock your elbows, leaving you helpless to react. In contrast, the wider your “stance,” the greater the load on your chest and back. But too much leaves little maneuverability as you are almost in the same situation as before with your arms locked out So I would think a good “stance” is going to be one that utilizes your large muscles more freeing your smaller muscles up for quick maneuvering. As far as the aerodynamics are concerned, you can always move your hands in on wider bar. Just my 1.2 cents (inflation and all).

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  2. Dan says:

    I learned to ride in the early 1990s and I still ride a 2002 model FS bike, so I’m used to riding with bars that are ridiculously narrow by today’s standards. Last year I demoed some 2013 models and found myself very concerned with bumping the handlebar with my knee in tight switchbacks. My balance also felt weird having to extend the arm on the outside of the turn farther forward than I’m used to in the same situation. Does this sound like I have a bike fit issue to pay attention to when I’m ready to buy a new bike, or is do I just need to get accustomed to a slightly different riding position?

    Reply
    • Gene says:

      Hi Dan, change always feels weird. It is most likely a body position issue, sounds like you are a little too upright and need to hinge at your hips, lower your chest and bend your arms more.

      Reply
  3. Jason says:

    Dallas is notorious for narrow tree gates that are almost impossible to ride straight through with wider bars. “Almost” – Andy showed us how to get through them by doing a wheelie or manual through the tree gate while turning your bars left or right to clear them. No loss of speed and it looks wicked cool to boot.

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