BetterRide MTB Head Coach Andy Get’s Tech on Clipless Pedals & Shoes

Recently, on this site, I’ve been writing about pedals – both “flat” or “platform” pedals (BMX style), and “clipless” pedals (which, oddly enough, are the kind your shoe actually clips into).

I’ve explained some of the technical points of FLAT pedals and shoes, and how to get the most out of this type of set-up. I’ve gone over some of the not-so-obvious advantages and disadvantages of each type of pedal and shoe combination. Now I’ll talk about the technical side of CLIPLESS pedals, a few different types of pedal and shoe combinations within the clipless genre, and a couple tricks to get the best performance out of your clipless shoe/pedal interface.

Again, and as I stated previously, there is no “better” choice when it comes to clipless vs flat pedals. Both have advantages and disadvantages with more overlap then most riders are aware of (especially if that rider has never taken the time to learn to ride the other system). If you learn to ride both types of pedal systems, it will benefit you greatly! (Look to previous posts for further explanations of this.)

So, we have MAINLY two different types of clipless pedals. The first has spring loaded bars that spread apart when under pressure from the cleat on the bottom of our shoe, and then the cleat snaps in between these bars. The bars then hold the cleat in place, and we’re “clipped-in”. Some pedal companies that use this system are Time and Crank Brothers. Some benefits of this system over the other is that its great for clearing mud and debris, therefore it functions well even in nasty weather conditions. It also takes up a bit less space (then the other system) and, thus, provides more ground clearance from obstacles on the trail. I believe this system also holds the title as the lightest system available. Some of the disadvantages of this system (depending on who you talk to) is that the bars can bend fairly easily when they come into contact with rocks, etc, on the trail. When this happens, its difficult to get into and out of the pedal, and chances are, its time for some new pedals. Another disadvantage is these pedals are either non-adjustable as far as spring tension is concerned, or have limited adjustability (I’m almost positive on this point – I may be wrong). Most riders that ride this system don’t mind the limited adjustability, saying that it feels just right anyway, and swear by it. As always, try them out before you by a pair. I’ve ridden this set-up in the past, and really enjoyed it.

CrankBros EggBeater pedal

 

The other type of system is essentially a Shimano SPD system. In my experience, I feel that they have more adjustability in spring tension and a different “feel” in terms of “float” (how far you can twist your foot before the cleat disengages with the pedal) and entry. Shimano also has different cleats: single release and multi-release as well as at least one wild-card cleat that was designed for a very limited type of pedal and is nearly impossible to use with any of their other pedals. I’m not exactly positive what Shimano’s story is on their cleat/pedal recommendations, so all I’ll say on the subject is do your research and try before you buy. But, obviously, they’re a great set-up when you get it right. The SPD’s can get finicky in a hurry in bad weather conditions. Any little bit of mud or debris can ball up the system pretty quickly and make it nearly impossible to get into and out of the pedals. To help alleviate this, start out with a clean pedal. Pay special attention to cleaning those babies out when you wash your bike. Also, the correct amount and type of lubricant will do wonders for SPD pedal performance: a very light, “dry” lubricant is great in dry and dusty conditions, and use something heavier when its wet (removing it, of course, before your next ride in the dust). Riders and mechanics have been know to spray their pedals and cleats with silicone spray (along with the rest of the bike – keep it off the brakes and brake pads!!!), when they know they will encounter wet conditions to help the systems shed the mud.

Shimano 424 w_platform pedal

At one end of the spectrum of clipless pedals, we have a pedal that has very little material and is extremely light in weight, such as the Crank Brothers Eggbeater shown in the photo. When this type of pedal is used with an extremely stiff and light – nearly XC specific – shoe, it makes for an extremely light and efficient shoe/pedal combination. If I were to race an XC race that wasn’t technically difficult; where power, light weight, and efficiency were way more important then bike handling skills (say, Leadville 100), I would prefer this type of set-up.

I ride with a DH-type clipless set-up, however. The difference in the pedals is that the DH set-up has a platform that surrounds the pedal (see photo), and the DH oriented shoe – though, quite a bit heavier (and more protective) – flexes substantially more then the XC set-up. This allows the shoe to flex enough to come into contact with the platform – while still being clipped-in – allowing for added pedal pressure and leverage to control the bicycle. PEDAL PRESSURE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING WHEN IT COMES TO APPLING POWER, BALANCE, AND CONTROL TO THE BIKE. I actually wear-out the soles of my shoes on the inside and outside of the cleat where my shoe flexes and the sole contacts the pedal platform.

5.10 Shoes, Minnaar Rubber Sole

Another great thing about the DH set-up is the large amount of rubber on the sole of the shoe compared to the XC’s hard plastic. This is great because things don’t always go as planned when riding in technically challenging conditions and every once in a while, we have to clip out, put a foot down, and then still have to ride the bike – whether we want to or not! (maybe down a steep, rocky drop) – without having the time to clip back in. With the flexible DH shoe and its rubber-y sole, combined with the large plastic platform of the pedal, I still have pretty good control with my foot on the pedal even if I’m not clipped-in (though, I would very much prefer to be …). Try this with the hard plastic-on-metal of the XC set-up, and you may as well be on a skating rink!

Great for xc racing but not much else

Also, often, we may have to suddenly clip-out and put a foot down on whatever is immediately available, say, a rock or a log – and, often, we only have one chance and not much time to do this right! If we miss our footing – say our shoe can’t get traction because its sole is made of hard plastic – which doesn’t stick very well to slick rocks or wood – we may end up tumbling down the mountain! That’s one more good reason to have some rubber on the bottom of your shoe!

 

And, sometimes riding mountain bikes requires not only riding the bike – but carrying the bike! Sometimes up rocky cliffs – for hundreds of feet! Or through dense forests … or rivers … in the dark! (Ever had a ride like that?!?)

Having a good rubber sole on your MTB shoes on “rides” like that is also nice.

So if your priority is power and efficiency, go with a light stiff shoe and a light, minimal, pedal. If you’re riding in gnarlier conditions, you may want something that gives you as much control and peace of mind as possible – even when your not clipped in – such as the DH-type set-up.

(The subject of cleat placement is often associated with the cause or prevention of pain or injury due to repetitious pedaling. I’m not a specialist in this area, so I’ll say: if it hurts, investigate why, change if necessary, use your brain … don’t change your cleat angle, injure yourself with an over-use/wrong cleat angle injury and then blame the guy who told you to do so on the website … ). Common sense …

Anyway – disclaimers aside – as far as you cleats are concerned, the angle that you mount you cleat on your shoe at determines how much you have to twist your foot to get it to disengage from the pedal. Play around with different angles and see what works for you. I prefer an angle that gets me out pretty quick, with a minimal twist. The fore and aft of the cleat on the shoe is also adjustable. There’s a standard formula for this if you’re riding on the road or maybe long XC rides or endurance races. This may become very important in these type of events in order to prevent injury because of the extended time in the saddle and high amounts of pedal reps. With more technical riding this becomes less of an issue because riders are moving around a lot more on their bicycles (not remaining in the same position and pedaling over extended periods of time). I’ve known some of the top DH’ers in the world to actually cut sections out of their shoes so they can move the cleat farther back (toward the heal) in order to be able to absorb the larger impacts with more of a squat (weight-lifting squat) as opposed to having to use more ankle. I was a little skeptical of this, however, when I jacked up my ankle pretty bad earlier this year, this cleat placement (way back) was the only way I could ride the bike (and teach camps!)

Once you find your preferred cleat position, LOCK-TITE your cleat bolts (use BLUE lock-tite, medium strength. DON’T use red, high strength, or you’ll never get the bolt off, ever again!). As you can imagine, a loose and twisting cleat – making it impossible to disengage from the pedal – at the wrong time could spell disaster! Also, keep an extra cleat bolt in your Camelback … you never know …

A couple more things: trimming the rubber or plastic on the bottom of your shoe with a carpenters knife (or whatever) is a great way to get more clearance for the cleat and easier entry and exit from the clip. This will also minimize the chances of debris collecting next to the cleat and the sole of the shoe.

And, stay away from the “clipless on one side and flat on the other side” pedals unless they live on your commuter or bar-bike. Fumbling around on the trail for the correct side of the pedal to clip into is inefficient and dangerous … so is riding the clip side with regular (non-clip) shoes. One or the other please – you won’t see any tops riders riding these pedals!!!

Happy pedaling!

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11 replies
  1. UltraRob says:

    I tried the SPD multi-release cleats several years ago and found they didn’t work for me. I quickly found that I use my feet a lot for control in corners including applying force in ways that the multi-release cleats are designed to release. I nearly crashed in the first few hard corners when I released unexpectedly. I didn’t waste time going back to the standard release cleats.

    Reply
    • Gene says:

      Hi Rob,

      Everything makes sense except not returning to the standard cleats. If the multi-release didn’t work for you for the reasons stated the regular cleats would of fixed the issue.

      Reply
  2. Eric Williams says:

    Andy, Thanks for the pedal series. I’m now motivated to finally get some decent flats. I apply Shoe Goo to the hard plastic soles to get some traction on rocks. It seems that only the $400/pair shoes have any rubber. My shoes are old so I am planning to use some nutserts and add soft soccer style cleats.
    I use Speedplay Frogs. Lots of people try them and toss them aside; definitely not for everyone but they are sure easy to get out of in a hurry. Conversely, you can come out of them accidentally more easily too. They release only to the outside. This feature caused me a bit of a problem once after I endo’ed. One foot remained clipped in, I couldn’t turn my heel out with the bike on top of me. A couple of minutes of struggle and contortions nearly worthy of Houdini set me free. My riding companions, naturally, were all way ahead of me, leaving me at the mercy of bears and squirrels. Thanks again for the articles.

    Reply
  3. Chris Allnutt says:

    I use egg-beater Crank Bros. Pedals on my road bike and will soon be adding them to my mountain bike after I practice some more of the weight placement drills for hill, up and down, that Gene talks about (thanks for that!). I find they hold strong, and also have 2 release settings based on which shoe you put the cleats on. Spring tension is a non issue on egg beaters because the cleat isn’t held in by tension.

    I’ve never had them come out, nor have any of my friends that MTB unless they intentionally did it themselves.

    My vote is for Crank Bros.

    Reply
  4. LostInTheTrees says:

    You never heard of Speedplay Frogs? No springs requiring adjustment and much more float for those of us with knees that need float. Also they are lighter than any other system.

    Reply
  5. Andy says:

    Yo LostInTheTrees,

    Yeah, I’ve heard of Speedplay. That’s why in the third paragraph, the article states that there are “…MAINLY two different types of pedals…”

    And, yes, the word “MAINLY” is capitalized in the text.

    Unfortunately, I can’t cover absolutely everything related to a particular topic, in a few hundred words. I have to draw the line somewhere, and since I rarely see Speedplays out in the world, they didn’t get mentioned. But, I’m sure they are great pedals.

    Reply
  6. Nick jung says:

    I’ve been looking at different pedal setups recently and reading all of your articles on that matter to try and decide what I want to do. Right now I am riding crankbrothers 5050xx pedals and Sam hill 510′s. I’m starting to train for 50 mile races though and have thought of switching to clipless but I’m having a hard time with the idea of giving up my flats especially given the idea that pedal efficiency wise it doesn’t seem like I have alot to gain from switching over. Also if I do I cannot decide between running a sidi Dom/shimano xtr985 setup or something similar to you with maybe a 510 minaar/mallet setup? Any suggestions? I’m in TN so most of my rides are along racoon mountain, bull mountain, and pinhoti as well as the ocoee tanasi trail systems.

    Reply
    • Gene says:

      Hi Nick,

      The Mallet/Minnaar combo will be comfortable, way easier to walk/push bike with and give you a little more balance and control while the Sidi/xtr combo will be way lighter. I can’t make the decision for you but those are the main pros/cons of each.

      -Gene

      Reply
  7. Jake says:

    I am a huge fan of Time Attack pedals. Have used them for years. The guys who race cross in my shop turned me on to them. My complaint is the cleat is brass so I have to replace them at least twice a year. As to Speedplay they are working on a new pedal system. Its called SYZR (pronounced as “scissor”). It works like there zero road pedals. The only people who ride frogs are 65 plus Midwest suburban recreational hybrid riders. They have not bought a new pair of shorts or shoes since Greg Lamond won The Tour De France.

    Reply
    • Gene says:

      10 time World Champ Nico Vouilouz loved Time pedals! I tried them for a few months but couldn’t get used to the float. For rides who like or need float for their knees they are great pedals with a surprisingly small following in the US.

      -Gene

      Reply
  8. Jonathan (Yongxin) says:

    As Gene advised, we need to be able to use both systems. So I start riding platforms a week ago. I have 5-10 and a pair of expedos. I am getting better on “getting heavy on pedals but light on bike”, however, I am still having difficult time putting my foot back to the right spot on the pedal after taking off in tricky sections of the trail. I guess this is going to take some time.

    Reply

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